The Perfect Day Trip from Quito: Hiking and Hot Springs in Papallacta, Ecuador

I’ll be honest, I didn’t know that Papallacta, Ecuador even existed when I touched down in Quito. Let alone some amazing natural hot springs tucked into a beautiful valley. Honestly, I only ended up in Quito because my flight from Panama City to Buenos Aires had me stopping there. Instead of passing through, I decided to turn a layover into the chance to see a new place. I’m glad I did.

And, if you’re spending any time in the capital city, the Termas de Papallacta should absolutely be on your list of things to do in Ecuador. They’re easy to get to, affordable, and a relaxing soak for your tired body after traveling – or before continuing your vacation in the Galapagos Islands.

I ended up in Papallacta on accident. I was on a multi-day mountain bike trip in the Ecuadorian Andes when the riots back in Quito came to a head (this was October 2019, when riots broke out over increased fuel prices). I was actually able to see fires burning from my vantage point in Cayambe Coca National Park. We learned that the rioters had set up barricades on all the major roads. And the government had enforced a strict curfew. 

Needless to say, we wouldn’t be going back to Quito. 

An introduction to Papallacta

The closest “town” (if you will) to us was really no more than a teensy-weensy collection of houses scattered along the mountainside. I learned “Papallacta” actually means “Potato Earth” and used to be a mecca for growing, you guessed it, potatoes. The Incan people discovered that the fertile volcanic soil, high altitude, and chilly year-round weather made it the perfect place for potatoes. They moved in, called it home and people have been growing them in this little mountain town ever since. 

Fortunately for us, someone also discovered some natural hot springs in the area. And, while potatoes may not make your list of things to do and see in Ecuador, these should.  

Of all the places someone could get stranded, this was kind of like hitting the jackpot. We checked into a budget hotel with the basics – eggs, and rice for breakfast, clean drinking water, decent wifi. And a really cold shower. Which was actually a bit confusing seeing as how it’s so close to hot springs. But anyway, I was along for the ride and really had no expectations. Which always leaves plenty of space for a place like Papallacta to charm you.

With its kind people, full-body chocolate wraps, a beautiful spa, lush mountain trails and blissful hot springs, it did just that. 

How to get to Papallacta from Quito

First, logistics.

Papallacta, Ecuador is a high-altitude pueblo tucked into the mountains – about 10,800 ft (3,300 m) above sea level. It is roughly a 1.5 – 2 hours (40 miles/67 kilometers) to the East of Quito and is a little oasis with thermal springs, a spa, bungalows, day pools, wooded walking paths, and private jacuzzis for hotel guests. It’s along the same route as Tena, a small jungle village, as well as Baeza and Misahuallí, two other popular towns for tourists to visit. And you can easily go/come back to Quito in a day/afternoon – the Termas de Papallacta website even suggests popping over during a long layover at the Quito airport!

You have four main options for getting to Papallacta, Ecuador: taking a tour, hiring a taxi, renting a car or grabbing a bus in Quito. Here are the rough costs:

• Day trip tours range from $50 USD to $120+ USD
• A private taxi/Uber should be around $60-$80 per car
• Car rental in Ecuador is easy to do at the Quito airport and can be as low as $30 a day
• The bus will be around $5, leaving from the Quitumbe terminal in Quito

Don’t be intimidated by the last two! The roads in Ecuador are exceptionally well-kept and the bus schedule is cheap/easy to follow.

In fact, there are buses that leave from Quito, heading toward Papallacta every 30 minutes and you don’t need to book anything in advance. To get to Papallacta, Ecuador by bus, just show up to the southernmost terminal in Quito – called Quitumbe. Go to one of the booths and ask to book a ticket for the bus to Tena, Coca, Lago Agrio or Puyo. Before you get on, you’ll tell the driver that you’d like to stop at Las Termas de Papallacta. They’ll let you off at the start of town and you’ll need to walk about 30 minutes to the spa entrance (unless you decide to do the hike I mention below).

Or, you can also ask about companies that go directly to the hot springs. I found BAÑOS Cooperativa De Transportes y Turismo and it seems like more are showing up as more and more people learn about the hot springs.

The best way to get there

I think the best option for solo travelers is taking the bus, while couples and small groups could easily rent a car or go for the Uber.

I’d say that a tour just to see the hot springs isn’t really worth it. But it could be a nice addition to your day at the Middle of the World (the official monument that famously not on the exact Equator) or another tour of the area. A taxi could be worth it if you’re in a group of people, but make sure you negotiate the price with the driver before getting in the car, confirming that it’s total price. Not per person. Quito taxi drivers are notoriously sneaky and seldom have meters, so your negotiating skills will come in handy!

I recommend waking up early, grabbing a quick coffee and taking the first ride out of town. The drive is in high altitude, so it will take longer than you think to do 40 miles. But the views of Quito are amazing if the fog clears!

Here’s what my idea of a perfect day in Papallacta, Ecuador looks like:

Start with: Hiking in the Andes Mountains

Before the trailhead, you’ll see local eateries and small hotels where you can stop for a pre-hike breakfast. This will likely be some traditional version of “huevos fritos” or fried eggs, white rice, avocado. You’ll also get coffee or hot chocolate. If you opt for the coffee, you should ask for a “cafe pasado.” This will get you a nicer drip or traditional pour-over version of higher quality coffee instead of the instant coffee that most people drink in Ecuador. 

After eating, bundle up and remember to put on some sunscreen! The trails at the Papallacta hot springs are at a high elevation, which means you’re closer to the sun and, ironically, probably a bit colder. In fact, Antisana Volcano (which is the mountain you’ll see on the hike if it’s not foggy) and Cotopaxi, which are both fairly close to Papallacta have year-round glaciers at the top.

You have two hiking options: 

1. A small boarded path next to the hotel that curves around the river (it takes about 30 minutes to complete)
2. The Virgen de Papallacta trail, which is about 10.5 miles (17 km) and will take you 5-6 hours.

You can access both from the Termas de Papallacta. But, if you want to do the longer hike, you should start – and ask your bus driver to drop you off – at the statue of the virgin in town. It’s not a difficult trail, but the elevation will make hiking a lot harder, so remember to stop frequently. Embrace a slower pace and enjoy yourself. You’ll walk through a lush valley with nothing but the sound of the river. You’ll probably get some moody fog and a bit of morning drizzle, but the clouds tend to clear later. 

And, at the end, you’ll be right at the entrance of the spa and hot springs, ready to relax!

Then: Soak in the Termas de Papallacta, or Papallacta hot springs

Do hot springs really need an introduction? The particular pools in Papallacta, Ecuador are naturally occurring due to the volcanos in the area. They heat the ground around them and cause any water to be naturally warm – and downright soothing.

Plus, due to the mix of minerals that are in the waters, they are actually good for your health! Some of the benefits of hot springs are that they may help increase blood circulation, reduce stress, relieve aches and pains, help heal skin conditions and help you sleep better at night.

The Termas de Papallacta are open every day from 6 a.m. – 9 p.m. General day entrance to the larger thermal pools is $9 a person and there’s a spa option with even more private pools, jacuzzis and hydro massages for $22. Once inside, you’ll be tempted by spa services, like a head-to-toe chocolate wrap or a full-body massage. Ecuador is famous for its chocolate, so why not? The prices are a bit cheaper than the US and the experience was really great. 

Outside, the hot springs are a mix of multiple pools that range from super steamy to c-o-l-d. You can alternate between them to really boost that blood circulation. Or you can pick your favorite and just enjoy the views of the mountains. You’ll also have a few waterfalls you can sit under for a nice little massage. 

Stop to eat: Try local trout or traditional cuy

You actually burn calories just by sitting in hot springs. So, don’t be surprised if you’re hungry after that hike and relaxing soak. Fortunately, you don’t have to go far for a tasty meal. 

The restaurant at the spa offers fresh trout from a nearby farm and has healthy veggie options. There are also budget-friendly picks outside of the hot springs, with things like stew, pizza and affordable daily menus. If you’re feeling really brave, you can wander into Papallacta for a traditional Ecuadorian plate of cuy, which is roasted guinea pig. Cuy was considered a delicacy in Ecuador before cattle were introduced to the area, serving as the main source of meat to those who could afford it.

I’ve still managed to stay vegetarian during my travels in South America, so I took a pass. But it is one of the most Ecuadorian dishes you can try during your travels!

End by: Get a chocolate wrap and massage at the Papallacta Spa

It won’t take you long to discover that Ecuador is the land of cacao and cocoa. Like visiting a coffee finca in Colombia, trying chocolate is just one of the things do in Ecuador. And, oh my gosh, is it delicious! I’ve never been a choco-holic, TBH. But, after a month in Quito and many cups of hot cocoa, it’s becoming a staple in my diet. 

After eating and drinking chocolate that came straight from the source in Ecuador, I felt like I could bathe in it. And if you’re spending the day at Papallacta hot springs, you actually can. 

You can waltz right into the spa at Termas de Papallacta and ask them to massage away the stress of travels before covering you head-to-toe in chocolate. I wasn’t turning this down.

I got a 30-minute back massage, full-body chocolate wrap, and a warm water hydro-something. It all cost a touch under $100 USD. They asked me to put on a weird, disposable bikini before heading to my private room. I got on a bed that was covered in plastic wrap. And then the woman proceeded to cover me in warm gooey chocolate. Note here: if you do the same, resist the urge to lick your body. I asked if I could and they said it’s not recommended because there were other additives.

Then, she wrapped ME in the plastic wrap before cocooning me – hands pinned to my side – in what looked like a windshield sun protector. 

It’s like a warm little nest.

I fell asleep immediately. 

After a while (honestly, I don’t know how long I was out) she unwrapped my cocoon. And that’s when the hydrotherapy session began. When I translated the description in my head, I thought it would be a 10-minute private soak in a jacuzzi with jets. I imagined soft music, cucumber water, and maybe a bit of that chocolate I was just covered in.

Instead, the fine people at the Termas de Papallacta spa did something very different. They asked me to stand with my arms outstretched to either side and spread my legs. Like that super vulnerable position you’re in when they ask to pat you down at the airport.

Then, the woman used grabbed a giant firefighter’s hose and used it to wash the chocolate off me. And that’s how I ended up in a hydrotherapy chamber in Papallacta, Ecuador, covered in nothing but chocolate and a disposable bikini made of the material they use for those disposable hospital boots. 

I can honestly say I’ve never had someone wash me like that. Or that I’ve had someone wash me in general. But I can still say I highly recommend you do it. You just aren’t living life until you have someone hose you down with a fireman’s hose, amiright?

After, you’ll put on a robe, get some tea, and chill in the relaxation room. And, after only one day in Papallacta, Ecuador your skin will be softer than you ever thought possible.

You can then have the staff at the hotel call you cab back to Quito. You can walk back to the bus stop. Or, you can book yourself a room and turn that day trip into a full-fledged weekend of relaxation. 

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